Kapuzinerberg Circuit
Self-guided circuit of Salzburg's right-bank hill. Linzer Gasse trailhead through woodland to viewpoints, monastery, and Franziskischlossl beer garden. 2 hours with stops. Quieter and more local than the Mönchsberg.
Trip Plan
Many summer mornings I got up at five to walk one of the city mountains next to my house and take photographs. This route walks two of them. The Mönchsberg is more a walk than a hike: once you are up it is almost flat, and you are still in the middle of the city. The Kapuzinerberg across the river is the opposite, a real mountain with a top, and you rarely meet anyone in its forest.
Both work in winter. The Mönchsberg paths are mostly cleared. On the Kapuzinerberg, skip the path along the wall when there is snow and take the stairs straight up to the Mozart bust, where the paths left and right are safe. The Gaisberg, the third city mountain, is a half-day hike of its own and not part of this walk.
Ordered route
The sequence and every stop note are preserved exactly as authored. Hover a stop to see it on the map; click a marker for the details.
Start on the bridge and climb from Mülln. It is my favourite way up: you cover the whole mountain walking towards the fortress, and on a summer morning, towards the rising sun.
The climb from the river passes the Augustinian church, joined to the biggest beer hall in Austria. Once you are on top, the Mönchsberg is almost flat.
Slightly hidden: take the small path down just after Hotel Mönchstein to a platform above St. Mark's church.
The terrace in front of the Museum of Modern Art, looking straight into Getreidegasse and over to the Festival House. The lift inside the mountain makes it the busiest viewpoint up here.
The Bürgerwehr, the stretch of old wall you see from all over town, with a small hostel and the restaurant with the best view in Salzburg. Go through the little door in the wall, turn right and walk to the end: my favourite platform up here.
The highest point of the Mönchsberg, hidden off the path; I only found it after years of guiding here. The best view south: the fortress with the Gaisberg behind it, the Alps, and Leopoldskron.
The ridge ends at the fortress. In summer, time it to arrive just after closing: the gate stays open an hour or two longer, and a small door only opens from the inside, so you can stay for the sunset.
Past the fortress to Nonnberg, the far end of the Mönchsberg. The nuns still live here, so be quiet in the church.
Beside the abbey, the open view south to the Untersberg and the Berchtesgaden Alps.
Cross the Salzach here. A café owner from the right bank paid for the bridge, and until 1921 you paid a toll to cross it.
Cross the street a few metres to the left and turn right again into Steingasse, one of the oldest streets in Salzburg and the best example of the simpler life on this side of the river.
261 steps up the Kapuzinerberg, two minutes from the free tour's meeting point. Halfway up, St. John's church is straight on at the first corner.
At the top of the stairs, a few steps to the right: one of the most famous views of the old town. Straight on instead is the second view, over the new town to the station and into Germany. Most people stop here, when the hike is only beginning.
Take the Basteiweg along the old city wall, the path with the views, to the little fortress at the top. It is a restaurant now, with strange opening hours, and one of my favourites in the city when it is open.
Come back down through the forest, the better way down, past the Mozart bust in the woods.
The yellow building is the Capuchin monastery. From here take the road down, with the stations of the cross along it: stairs up, road down, and you have done both.
Editorial connections
Self-guided circuit of Salzburg's right-bank hill. Linzer Gasse trailhead through woodland to viewpoints, monastery, and Franziskischlossl beer garden. 2 hours with stops. Quieter and more local than the Mönchsberg.
The definitive self-guided walk in Salzburg. Ridge-top traverse of the Mönchsberg from north to south, passing the Museum der Moderne, Stadtalm, Humboldtterrasse, Richterhöhe, ending at Hohensalzburg Fortress. 1.5-2 hours. Free. The single most rewarding thing a visitor can do.
Ready when you are
Every stop above links to its full guide, so the route works without me. If you would rather have the stories told out loud, the daily free walking tour covers the heart of it.
