Hohensalzburg fortress over the old town at sunrise
Hohensalzburg, just after it opens

INTRODUCING SALZBURG

Salzburg, honestly.

A local, licensed guide on what is actually worth your time. Tours, food, the quiet corners most visitors walk past.

Browse Salzburg

Where do you want to start?

The places worth walking to, the experiences I recommend, the towns beyond the city, and the people behind the story.

Salzburg Card

A visitor pass that covers free entry to most major attractions and free public transport, available in 24, 48, or 72-hour versions. For any…

From €35 / from

Schranne Salzburg

Thursday mornings at the Andrakirche in the Neustadt: regional farmers selling produce to the people who will cook it that day. The genuine feel…

Siemens Festspielleinwand

A free outdoor screen in Kapitelplatz during the Salzburg Festival, broadcasting live and recorded opera and concert performances to anyone who brings a picnic.…

Walk of Modern Art

Seventeen permanent sculptures by Anselm Kiefer, James Turrell, Abramović, and others, scattered through the Altstadt and Mönchsberg. Self-guided, free, and placed exactly where they…

All experiences →What earns the ticket
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district

Maxglan

Maxglan is a western district of Salzburg where the airport, a legendary brewery, a Red Bull aviation museum, and a piece of important interwar architecture all exist within walking distance. It is also where Hermann…

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district

Mülln

Mülln sits immediately northwest of the Altstadt, pressed between the Mönchsberg cliff and the Salzach River. Its main draw is the Augustiner Braustuebl Muelln, a monastery beer hall that has been serving unfiltered…

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district

Neustadt

The Neustadt occupies the right bank of the Salzach River, directly across from the Altstadt. Planned and built from the late 17th century under the prince-archbishops, it holds Mirabell Palace and Mirabell Gardens,…

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district

Nonntal

Nonntal is the valley district at the foot of the Nonnberg, the rocky hill that has held a convent since the eighth century. Quiet and primarily residential, it is also one of the most historically…

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state

Salzburg State

Salzburg State is the place behind the city: a federal state of 7,154 km2 that runs from a baroque UNESCO-listed capital in the north to glacial peaks and remote alpine plateaus in the south. Five…

All destinations →The towns that earn the train
All the people →Guides, makers, characters

THINGS TO DO

Things worth doing

Half-day tours, cooking classes, mountain swims, concerts in the old town. The ones I would actually send a friend to.

Rupertikirtag

Late September, Residenzplatz fills with fairground stalls, traditional food, and local people. Salzburg's oldest folk festival, running for days around the feast of the…

Mozartwoche

One week each January, entirely Mozart, in the city where he was born. Organised by the Stiftung Mozarteum, attended by serious Mozart enthusiasts from…

Mozart Dinner Concert

Dinner in the oldest restaurant in the world, by candlelight, with costumed performers playing Mozart arias. The Baroque Hall of Stiftskeller St Peter is…

Festungskonzerte

Chamber music by candlelight in the Prince's Chamber of Hohensalzburg Fortress, 900 metres above the Altstadt. Mozart and Haydn, performed in the same building…

FROM THE NOTEBOOK

Stories from the notebook

Field notes and honest takes from my last few weeks around Salzburg.

Nannerl: The Mozart Nobody Talks About

Maria Anna Mozart was four and a half years older than her brother and just as talented. As a child, she toured the royal courts of Europe alongside Wolfgang, performing for kings and emperors. The audiences could not…

What Most Mozart Guides Get Wrong

Every week on my tours, someone asks about Salieri. Every week I explain that Amadeus is a film, not a documentary. That is only the beginning. The popular version of Mozart's life is a mix of half-truths, romantic…

The Mozart Family and St. Gilgen

Mozart never visited St. Gilgen. His mother was born there. His sister lived there for seventeen years. His grandfather and brother-in-law are buried in the churchyard. The village square is named after him. He never…

All the field notes →

WORTH A STOP

Places worth a stop

Cafes, viewpoints, swim spots and dinner tables on the shortlist.

WHERE TO BASE YOURSELF

City and beyond

Salzburg city, the lake towns, the mountain villages. Pick where you sleep.

village

St. Wolfgang

30 km from Salzburg

St. Wolfgang is a historic pilgrimage village on the eastern shore of the Wolfgangsee, carrying…

town

Zell am See

57 km from Salzburg

Zell am See is the kind of Austrian town that works across every season without…

city

Vienna

254 km from Salzburg

Vienna is referenced in IS content both as a primary gateway city (approximately 3 hours…

city

Munich

116 km from Salzburg

Munich is the nearest major international city to Salzburg and one of the two primary…

village

Gosau

44 km from Salzburg

Gosau is the quiet end of the Salzkammergut, a Upper Austrian village at the mouth…

district

Flachgau

35 km from Salzburg

The Flachgau is the district that surrounds Salzburg on nearly every side, stretching from flat…

WHY THIS SITE

No sponsored lists. Just what I would tell a friend.

I have lived and guided here for over fourteen years. Everything on these pages is somewhere I have actually been, eaten, or walked. If a place is not worth your time, I say so.

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Plan a trip that fits

How many days, where to stay, what to skip. The practical groundwork before you book a thing.