Hohensalzburg was never conquered. The fortress that looms over the Altstadt from Festungsberg hill has changed hands exactly once in nearly 950 years, and that was a diplomatic handover to Napoleon's forces in 1800, not a siege.
The Story
Gebhard von Helfenstein ordered the first walls built in 1077, on the steep cone of Festungsberg, just south of Salzburg's old town. He was not building a monument. He was choosing a side: papal over imperial during the Investiture Controversy, the struggle between Pope Gregory VII and Emperor Henry IV over who had the right to appoint bishops. The rocky height gave him both a defensible position and a visible statement of ecclesiastical independence. When Gebhard was forced into exile in 1085, the unfinished fortress passed to his successors, who continued reinforcing it in stone.
The transformation from military outpost to princely residence came under Leonhard von Keutschach, whose reign ran from 1495 to 1519. Leonhard added the massive Pallas tower (Hohe Stock), thickened the ring walls to absorb artillery, and commissioned the Fürstenzimmer, the Princely Rooms, whose gilded coffered ceilings, Gothic tiled stoves, and 17-metre carved beam bearing the Holy Roman Empire's eagle remain among the finest surviving examples of late Gothic secular architecture in the German-speaking world. His signature, a turnip coat of arms, is worked into the stone throughout the complex. It was also Leonhard who ordered the Reisszug in 1515: a counter-balanced cable system to haul supplies up the incline, unchanged in principle ever since and considered the world's oldest still-operational railway.
The fortress then became a refuge and a prison in equal measure. During the Peasants' War of 1525, Archbishop Matthäus Lang sheltered inside while Michael Gaismair led a months-long siege from below. The walls and cisterns held. A generation later, the Habsburgs, the dynasty that ruled Austria for six centuries, found the fortress useful for a different purpose. Wolf Dietrich von Raitenau, the archbishop who had reshaped much of Salzburg's Baroque street plan with cathedral squares and broad processional routes, was deposed by his own chapter in 1611 and imprisoned here from 1612 until his death in 1617. The view from his cell over the city he had built was arguably the cruelest part of the sentence.
The fortress's last unexpected chapter came in 1953, when Oskar Kokoschka opened his Schule des Sehens (School of Vision) inside its walls as part of the International Summer Academy of Fine Arts. The same stone rooms that had housed a garrison, a court, and a prisoner became a working art school, one that ran under Kokoschka's direction for years.
Visiting
Plan 1.5 to 2.5 hours. The all-inclusive ticket (EUR 19.20) covers the funicular, museums, and the Fürstenzimmer state rooms. A basic ticket (EUR 15.50) includes the funicular but not the state rooms. The Festungsbahn funicular from Festungsgasse takes about one minute and runs during fortress hours. The steep uphill walk from the Altstadt takes 15-20 minutes and is a worthwhile approach if the legs are willing: the walk down afterward is easier and gives better photo angles of the rooftops. The Reisszug runs on its own track and carries freight only; it is not a passenger ride. Good pairings nearby: Stift St. Peter and Petersfriedhof are at the foot of the hill. Jan-Apr and Oct-Dec hours: 9:30am-5pm. May-Sep: 8:30am-8pm.
